Stan Graham heads for The Greedy Pig to check out their brunch menu. Does it live up to the Swine That Dines?
This week I am doing something which I have not done before. I am reviewing an establishment that one of my colleagues has already covered, or rather, I am writing about a meal eaten in the same place. Confused? Why wouldn’t you be. The premises in question are at 58 North Street which by day is The Greedy Pig and by night, at least on Friday and Saturday, The Swine That Dines.
I remember reading about the concept of dual use in the Eighties when the London Docklands were being redeveloped. The traditional transport cafes were in decline as the docks closed and the rents increased owing to the ‘yuppiefication’ of the area and so they shared the costs with chefs who catered to the tastes of the new residents. At four o’clock the cafes would shut and the ketchup bottles made way for tablecloths and designer crockery. When the regeneration was finished there was no more call for the greasy spoons so they closed down and purpose-built restaurants took over.
Such is life that Becky got to review the restaurant and I get the daytime cafe job. Although it seems that the evening meal was excellent, I am not in the least bit jealous as the brunch menu was very imaginative. Although ostensibly a take-away, there are four small tables and a short lunch counter so twenty or so diners can be shoehorned in. There is an imaginative range of sandwiches such as Confit Pork, Red Cabbage, Apple and Sage, as well as the Full English Breakfast or the American and veggie versions. I ordered from the brunch menu from which I chose the House Merguez, Duck Eggs and Harissa, £7.00.
I had a large Americano to accompany at £2.00. The premises are not licensed although customers are welcome to take their own booze. The merguez was not quite what I was expecting. I thought that I would be presented with a couple of spicy sausages in skins but what arrived was the filling I anticipated but more in the form of meatloaf. No complaints on that score, the meat being skinless and in a thick slice was juicy, red and spicy. The harissa was also piquant but not lip numbing as some can be. The final component was two duck eggs fried to perfection. The combination of the spices in the sausage and harissa was perfectly offset by the creamy taste of the eggs. I can see myself calling here again to sample another aspect of the menu.
When I said that I was not jealous of Becky having visited the evening restaurant I was not being totally honest as, if this is the standard of brunch, dinner must be truly wonderful.
Photography by Stan Graham