Come on, own up, how many of you – sorry us – have been for a night out on the lash in Leeds and not ended up at the Mill Hill Kebab House for a pitta full of unidentified frying object at, what for most people, is breakfast time?
When I lived in the town centre it was my favourite Friday night pit stop on my way home. I was never totally out of it, as at my age a late night means missing the first half of News at Ten, but I have had evenings when I would stare at the vertical spit and wonder what kind of animal could produce such a huge, perfectly formed conical cut of meat like that. The only other item on the menu was chicken, so I was also mystified as to what vegetarians had on their way home from a beano. I need worry no more as Knave’s Kitchen in Oporto Bar has introduced not a vegetarian doner but a vegan one, so I had to give it a try, the advantage being that you don’t even need to leave the pub to have one.
I had been to Knave’s Kitchen the previous evening to sample tasters from their new menu, all of which were very good replicas of meat or fish dishes, although one did this in a way which was not intended. It was then that I saw on the menu the homage to Leeds’ favourite after pub stop, which is called No.2 Mill Hill in due deference. It is described as ‘Our signature grilled seitan, hummus, pickled cucumber, Iceberg, and our ‘Jack of All Knaves Smoked Chilli Sauce’, £7.00. I also ordered a portion of Brazilian Slaw, £2.50. The kebab arrived in a take-away carton but instead of the bread totally encasing the filling, it lined the bottom of the container and was then artistically folded over the top. A cheffy kebab, whatever next! This topless version meant that the ingredients were on display in all their glory.
There were a couple of sauces in the condiments container, a tomato ketchup and a hot chilli, but I thought that I would test the unenhanced dish first and I have to say that it was delicious. The wrap was a lot thicker and lighter than the normal version, as was the ‘meat’, and I found both elements benefited from the change. The adornments were superb, with the pickled cucumber being sliced from the vegetable longways rather than across and the slim piquant slivers cleansed the palate perfectly. The smoked chilli sauce gave a bit of a kick, but after tasting all of the elements individually and then in various combinations, I added some of the hot condiment to the rest, which made it a bit more to my taste. I am always a little sceptical about vegan restaurants trying to replicate meat dishes, but in this case I have no problem as I found this offering far superior to the original. I must admit that I didn’t get the Brazilian reference when it came to the slaw as it was the normal cabbage, carrot and onion base with a few extra vegetables added. Serves me right for not asking, but whatever the explanation, it was well presented and flavoured.
In addition to serving healthy, delicious food they don’t neglect their social responsibilities: all of the food containers and cutlery are suitable for recycling or composting.
As I previously stated, I had called the night before and had samples of some of the other dishes. The Onion Bhajis were magnificent as was the Sea Shepherd, their answer to fish and chips. In fact I found the taste to be a little too fishy from the Nori, a seaweed. The item to which I referred earlier was the CFC or Cornflake-battered ‘Chicken’ Gougons. I found the sample I was given to be delicious but rather than tasting of chicken I thought it was very reminiscent of pork sausage meat. Either way, it was good to find a deep fried vegan dish which hadn’t absorbed the oil in which it had been cooked and become far too greasy.
When I had finished my meal I was joined by Sam Thomas, the head chef and great guy. I’m sure that we could have spent all night discussing food, but the customers started filing in so he had to go do his job. Before he went I was able to ask about his background. He is originally from Nottingham but came to Leeds University to study Marketing. (Well, Leeds does have a great market.) When he left he decided that he needed to get into the restaurant business as food is his life’s passion and so he taught himself the rudiments of cooking and found jobs in various layers of the profession, ranging from street food stands at festivals to sous chef at Cantina in Vicar Lane, where he was promoted to head chef.
Just under a year ago he moved to take up the position of head chef at Knave’s Kitchen. Since arriving he has been developing cooking techniques so that they appeal to vegans, vegetarians and omnivores alike. I asked him why vegan chefs insist on trying to replicate meat dishes when they have such a rich array of flavours to work with. He said that the aim was to encourage meat eaters to try vegan food and that is easier to do if they recognise the look of the offerings. Although there are only five main courses on the menu and half a dozen sides, Sam said that the preparation of vegetable dishes was far more complex than for meat so it wasn’t practical to do too many. He said that he gets some further stimulus as far as creating dishes is concerned when Knave’s Kitchen puts on one of its themed supper club nights.
Referring to my kebab, I couldn’t leave without mischievously asking Sam what possible challenge could there be in producing a vegan imitation of what is, in effect, a pretend meat in the first place. He asked me which I preferred, thus pulling the carpet firmly from under my feet. I doubt that I will ever be tempted to become vegan but if this standard of food becomes the norm, I could be persuaded to partake more often.
