“Have some wine” the March Hare said. “But I don’t see any wine” said Alice. “That’s because there isn’t any” said the March Hare.
Our night at Six by Nico gave us the reality of excellent service, fine food and perfectly matched wine which, unlike Alice, we could definitely see.
We breathed sighs of pleasure when we walked into the restaurant. It is lovely – well designed, welcoming and so comfortable. The welcome was warm and friendly, the tables already busy and, completing the altogether lovely vibe, were the diners’ happy faces.
Our waiter, James, guided us superbly well through the six courses. He was very knowledgeable about the food as well as the matched wine for each of courses two to five – and answered all questions, settling any doubts. (My friend Victoria is vegetarian. Those questions are important!)
Our first course was named ‘We’re all mad here’, which was a Chicken Fat Doughnut with Roast Chicken Juices. Forgive the missing image. Instead, here’s what the appetiser (‘snacks’) looked like:
‘Eat Me! Drink Me!’ Warm sourdough bread, whipped malted barley and bone marrow butter, mushroom consommé and an aged Cheddar Empire biscuit. Snacks also include summer truffle and pickled mushrooms.
We were also served a cocktail – Through The Looking-Glass, which was fruity, refreshing and very nice indeed. Life is good.
Elderflower, grapefruit, raspberry, prosecco and soda.
Course 2, Caterpillar Secret Garden – Barbecue Hispi Cabbage, Smoked Potato Terrine, Taramasalata and Garden Herbs paired with Brut Cava, Bocchoris from Cataluña, Spain.
This was the most delicately flavoured of all the dishes, delivering a satisfying combination of textures.
Course 3, Paint The Roses Red – Goats Cheese Parfait, Beetroot, Grilled Red Pepper, Ancho Chilli, paired with Mușcat, Viile Metamorfosis from Dealu Mare, România.
I think this was the point at which I saw a very different Victoria – my friend had developed an appetite I hadn’t witnessed before now; one that had her enthusing over the food and clearing her plate. It was a revelation and a highlight of the evening for me. Here’s the evidence:
Onwards to Course 4, Breakfast in Disguise – Sunny Side Upside Down – Black Pollock, Black Pudding, Egg Yolk Jam and Smoked Bacon with Les Hauts de Pepy Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Girard from Languedoc, France
Course 5, Off With His Head – Crisp Pig Head, Fennel, Lovage and Apple & Mustard Mousseline with Rioja Crianza 2020 from Marques de Varea, Spain
The depth and combination of flavours achieved for this course was superb. The meat was succulent, its caramelised crispiness perfectly balanced by the clever addition of tangy apple and mustard mousseline.
Course 6, Jam First – Logic Later. ‘Inverted’ Tea & Toast Burnt Toast Delice, Summer Strawberries, Breakfast Tea Ganache and‘Jammy Dodger’ with Dolce Essenza Frizzante, La Sera from Malgra, Italy and Brachetto d’Acqui, Il Furetto – Vite Colte, Italy
Whilst this was clearly a popular dish, I think at this point my own taste buds were already happy. I couldn’t do justice to this course. The fruity freshness of the strawberries and the light flavour of the tea ganache were a lovely idea for a finish to a meal that became a culinary adventure, one of which Alice would no doubt have approved.
We were told that each dish is designed to surprise and spark conversation, paired optionally with imaginative drinks and wines to enhance the story. I can safely say that the objective was achieved.
The six-course tasting menu is priced at just £45 per person, with an optional drink pairing available from £30.
The Mad Hatter’s experience runs for six weeks only, until Sunday August 24th 2025.
Reservations open at www.sixbynico.co.uk
Photography by Sam Pierre.
