Kino opened in July, on Vicar Lane, filling the space between the entrances to the Grand Theatre and Howard Assembly Rooms.
A restaurant for the theatre was long overdue. I like to eat before or after a performance, but deciding where and working out itineraries can be difficult. Initially, Kino was offering a range of cheese and meat sharing platters, easy eating before a performance, but I often crave more
So I waited until the start of the residency by ‘Levantine’ street food specialists MorMor before I visited. There is still quick service and plates to share but the menu is now much more varied. I chose to visit midweek, during a theatre performance, so only a few tables were being used. No doubt it had been busier before the performance began.
The menu is arranged into Mezze, Small Plates, Large Plates and Desserts, all designed to be shared. The Mezze section was described ‘to start’ and we had presumed this would be served first but the Muhammara and Flatbread we selected came with the rest of our order. This does make for speedy pre-theatre dining but if you want to linger over a meal you might want to order in stages.
We decided to order a number of small plates in order to sample a good range of the flavours on offer. The menu descriptions tend to name a string of ingredients in the title, some adding further explanation about process. Vegetarian, vegan, gluten free and halal options are highlighted on the menu.
The plates here are as much about the final touches as the basic dish. Dukkah, pomegranate molasses, za’atar or sumac are added as garnishes, but are essential to the dishes. These elements add both flavour and texture to the well designed plates.
We ordered roast aubergine, chicken shish tawook, roasted root vegetables and an orzo salad. Together with the Muhammara and flatbread, this was plenty. The dishes arrived swiftly within a few minutes of each other.
I enjoyed all the dishes but was initially rather disappointed by the lack of heat. I had been imagining skewered chicken hot off a grill and seared flatbread. The dishes were served warm rather than hot. Maybe they are prepared and kept warm. No doubt this makes service quicker but I did need to adjust my expectations. The vegetables were roasted but they had not only just been taken out of the oven.
Having said that, my favourite dish was chilled. The Orzo, Feta, Orange and Pea with Za’atar tasted light and refreshing despite its pasta base. The orzo was perfectly cooked and made a good base for the zingy orange, sweet peas and soft, salty feta, all brought together by the herbs in the za’atar.
The disappointing dish was the roasted root vegetables. I was unsure whether the chef was attempting a range of textures or if they had just ignored the fact that different root vegetables require different cooking times. All the vegetables had been cut to the same size. I liked the sift squash, the carrot was firm but the beetroot was just a little too hard for my liking and didn’t seem to have been cooked long enough to develop a characteristic sweetness. The vegetables had been well seasoned and the pomegranate molasses and dukkah finished the dish well.
The Muhammara was another dish I would definitely order again. The sweet pepper dip had great depth of flavour, a smooth consistency and vibrant appearance. Although I would have liked my flatbread warmer, it was great for mopping up every last bit of dip.
The chicken and aubergine dishes were both well presented. The skewer of grilled, marinated chicken was tender and accompanied by soft peppers and crumbly couscous. The aubergine was simply cooked, the dish again made by a dukkah crumb, this time involving almond and date. Honey, yoghurt and tahini added moisture.
Wine is served by the glass, half litre carafe or bottle. We opted for a half litre of Romanian Pinot Noir to share. You rarely find Romanian wine in restaurants, and it was great for pairing with the mildly spiced food. The Carmele Recas is described on the menu as having a hint of spice and smoke, exactly what was needed with this style of food. Wine and water were both served in stylish glass carafes. All the tableware was elegant.
Having stuck with small plates, we found we had room for dessert, although only one between the two of us. We chose the Glazed Lemon Tart. Our decision to share had been correct as it was a good size. The pastry was buttery, the lemon with just the right amount of citrus flavour but the best part was the raspberry sorbet. The iced accompaniment was full of flavour and made a refreshing end to the meal.
The interior was smart but the view through double height glass windows was not great. As the sun went down I didn’t appreciate watching the neon of fried chicken take-aways on the opposite side of the road. I wondered if the restaurant area might feel more welcoming with blinds. Before leaving, I had a look up a flight of stairs to a bar area. Again, there were only a couple of tables being used but somehow the location, away from harsh street lighting, and the eyes of passing pedestrians, was more welcoming.
The bill came to £70, which for a good selection of food and a carafe of wine was reasonable. I have noticed that there is a pre-dinner meal deal of a choice of two selected small plates and one larger plate for £21.95. I may have to try this next time I visit the theatre. The residency runs until the new year.
Photographs by Debbie Rolls unless otherwise attributed.
