The bottom of Town Street, Horsforth, is becoming a culinary centre. There are choices – Turkish, Malaysian, and burgers to eat while Little Monk Beer House and Once Upon a Vine offer drinks. Since December, Forde has added more good food and drink.
Masterchef finalist Matt Healy was in the kitchen when we visited on a Friday lunchtime. Opening Forde, a small plates restaurant, is a real homecoming for Matt. He grew up in Horsforth and much of his skill was developed producing tapas at El Gato Negro in Manchester.
The small plates menu, a dozen items plus a charcuterie board and cheese board, is available all day. During the morning, brunch items are offered and in the evening a few extra larger dishes and desserts are added on the specials board. There is a relaxed atmosphere to eating here. Our server recommended five or six dishes to share but you can have as little or much as you like.
The restaurant is intimate – no more than twenty-five people could sit comfortably on the padded banquette and chairs. An open kitchen at the far end morphs into a bar along one wall. There are a few high bar stools for drinkers. A brown and beige palette is brightened by large windows, bringing plenty of natural light in the day and yellow hued lights in the evening.
The general image is a mix of cosy lounge and industrial chic. Wooden beams open to a partially hidden, high roof space, allowing lots of room for heat and aromas from the kitchen to dissipate. My only reservation was the unfinished floor, which seemed too industrial, in the otherwise well-organised toilet area. I noted the good baby changing facilities and disabled access.
From the brunch specials, we chose a Croque Madame, served with a fried egg, which was well made and substantial enough for a light lunch. In fact, a nearby table ordered two Croque Madame and two glasses of wine The outside of the sandwich was crispy, the egg runny and the interior was soft, smooth and slightly sweet.
From the small plates menu, we selected spiced duck salami, Waldorf tart, roasted cod, and bread. The sourdough bread is served with marmite butter. I am on the love it side of the Marmite debate but my companion hates it. Staff were happy to provide extra virgin butter for him.
Food arrives as it is cooked so we began with the salami and bread. The meat looked like any other salami but the presence of both duck and spice were easily discernible. Cold dishes are served simply on wooden boards. The only addition to the salami, a scattering of cornichons, was mostly eaten by me, as my companion is also not a fan of gherkins.
Next up was the Waldorf tart. This was delicious but small. I would have liked one all to myself. The Waldorf salad sat on a rectangle of light, crisp pastry. The apple and walnut were crunchy but the dish was truly made by the Yorkshire Blue cheese that formed a soft, tangy coating to the other elements.
The cod was served on a bed of soft, grilled Spanish peppers and topped with a dense salsa verde, white fish brought to life by vibrant green and bright red. The cod was firm and flaked well, and the sauce brought zing to the dish, balanced by the soft, sweet peppers.
Service was faultless. Our server was friendly, answering questions with enthusiasm. Dishes came at regular intervals, enabling you to time to mix and match or choose to eat one by itself. We were brought water as soon as we arrived. There was a good list of wine and beers but there was no pressure to drink. As I was working in the afternoon and my companion was driving, we stayed with water, as did another table of diners. The carafe of water was replaced twice during our visit without our needing to ask.
Our bill came to forty pounds. Dishes varied in price – £4.50 for the bread and Marmite butter, £8.50 for the salami and £11 for the cod. Our Croque Madame cost £8.50. The brunch menu is good value, with options priced from £8 to £9. Other options on the day of our visit included anchovy and poached egg, scrambled egg with smoked salmon and summer berry pancakes.
Roasts are served on Sunday. The Forde’s website also advertises free WiFi and good coffee, for those who might like to work in the space. The small plates menu changes every few months, encouraging return visits. This is a restaurant you could visit for a celebration meal but is equally inviting for brunch or lunch. It is worth a trip out from the City centre and of course is likely to become a firm favourite among the residents of Horsforth.
Photographs by Debbie Rolls.
