Nesso has arrived in Leeds City Centre. The cafe bar is stylish, welcoming and serves great afternoon tea.
I like the idea of afternoon tea more than the reality. Part of my hesitancy is that I like my food hot, although I am a sucker for cream cakes and pastries. At Nesso, they have solved my dilemma, offering a choice of a hot brunch dish or focaccia pizza with a Prosecco, followed by tea or coffee and a selection of cakes. The transition from hot to cold is completed by an ice cream cone to finish. At £44.50 for two people, it is also terrific value.
This is the second branch of Nesso to open. The other is on Queen Street in Morley. The Nesso experience is the creation of former Masterchef contestant Bobby Geetha. He also runs Fleur in the Light and Kerala Canteen on St Peter’s Street. Kerala Canteen was recognised this month as one of the top 100 Indian restaurants in the country by the British Indian Good Food Guide.
You enter to a display cabinet full of fresh Italian pastries, other assorted cakes and packets of Nesso’s own brand coffee to tempt you. The space is airy, but the lighting and décor give it a warm, welcoming feel. Wide paths between tables, street level access and the large disabled access toilet make it inclusive for families and those with mobility issues. I liked the spirals of light created by perforated wall lights.
We were told to sit wherever we liked, so I opted for a padded bench, my companion taking the seat opposite. We had decisions to make. What hot brunch items to savour and what hot drinks to order. We selected the Smoked Salmon Avo Toast, the Pulled Duck and Egg Hash, a cappuccino and a ginger and lemon tea. We stayed with Prosecco, but there is an interesting range of juices, smoothies and milkshakes for those who want to avoid alcohol.
Our Prosecco and cakes arrived first, but we managed to resist the temptation to nibble on a sweet treat while we waited for the hot dishes. They did not take long, even though all need to be freshly prepared. I was worried that a brunch plate might be overwhelming as part of afternoon tea but the proportions were just right. A single piece of thinly sliced sourdough was stacked with soft advocado, strips of salmon, hollandaise, tomatoes and a perfect poached egg. The toast remained crisp and up to the job of supporting the delicious topping.
We could have drawn upon the Italian vibe of the café and had meatballs, Italian eggs or focaccia pizza. Instead, I felt myself drawn to the duck hash. I had previously eaten a duck and potato dish at Kerala Canteen, and I wanted to see if there were any similarities. There were: the same soft duck, the same small potatoes and the same pickled chilli. The spicing was different, but this was an Indian inspired brunch dish. The whole thing was topped with another perfectly cooked poached egg and more sourdough.
Our cake selection comprised of two pistachio cannoli, two chocolate cannoli, two scones and a vanilla and a chocolate iced cupcake. The cannoli had a good snap and the creamy fillings had strong flavours. The cupcakes were soft, draped in buttercream and looked beautiful.
The highlight of the meal was the most traditional. The scones were light but with a pleasing, crisp top. These were the type of scones you would hope to eat in an upmarket country hotel. They came with good quality butter, jam and cream, for you to apply yourself. We did not manage an ice cream at the end. Far too full. In the summer, I might keep the cannoli for later and take an ice cream to enjoy in the sunshine.
Other people were popping in for just a coffee or hot drink and sweet treat. The pancakes seemed particularly popular. Some of the visitors were working on laptops whilst supping their beverages. Nesso promises a good, fast WiFi connection. The cafe is open from 9.30 to 6pm every day, apart from Saturday when it stays open until 8pm. This is an all-day dining possibility, from breakfast to early supper. A broad selection of alcoholic drinks, including wine, cider, beer and even champagne might even make it the place to start your evening.
At Nesso, the best of Italian café culture has combined with the best of traditional British tea and brunch. It has then been transformed into something special by a bit of Indian magic.
