I’ll preface this piece by saying this is not a review. If that’s what you’re looking for, then there will no doubt be (at least) one published here in due course. This, however, is not it.
It has puzzled me for a while that Leeds hasn’t had more permanent destinations for independent food traders. After all, Leeds has had an impressive street food scene for a long time, with many traders rotating through Trinity Kitchen or popping up at various locations across the City. Admittedly there is the food hall in Kirkgate Market and the replacement for Assembly Underground under Great George Street, Northern Market, run by one of Leeds’ great breweries, Northern Monk.
Leeds has demonstrated its appetite for indie-led food, and the success of various pop-up gatherings across the City, especially in the warmer months, has been proof of that. Leeds is more than ready for another food hall and last Friday (August 23rd) the wait was over as we witnessed the opening of the new kid on the block, White Cloth Hall (WCH)
Before I continue, I must point out that I’m not comparing WCH with Trinity Kitchen or with the market for that matter. They are very different beasts, but their ability to offer a space for our indie chefs to cook under one roof makes them comparable in one way at least.
Location
WCH is located in a Grade II-listed landmark on Crown Street, just behind the Corn Exchange. It occupies a Grade II listed building with a long and interesting history.
This part of town was once a popular nighttime destination but has declined over the years, with more closures than openings. Although in need of some tlc, there is no denying the buildings around here are full of potential, something identified by Ed Masson and co, the successful team behind Whitelocks, one of Leeds’ greatest and oldest on the hospitality scene that needs little introduction.
The Hall
White Cloth Hall boasts a harmonious blend of Victorian touches and circus-inspired elements that pay homage to the building’s intriguing past. I only recently discovered there was once a circus here: fascinating.
The main bar area is bright and airy, with a partially glazed roof, letting in plenty of light. Some of the other areas that run off from the main space are more intimate and atmospherically lit. There are two mezzanines providing additional seating, with the larger of the two offering views of the food hall below. The almost obligatory outdoor space is located in an alley to the side of the building (remember Cuban Heels, anyone?). I’ve not done it justice calling it an alley. As alleys go, this is a good one.
Overall, there’s a welcoming feel to the place and you can easily see why WCH will be popular with both daytime diners and evening drinkers alike.
My Visit
I found myself at the Press Night, a couple of days before the grand opening. As you can imagine, the place is packed with the who’s who in the world of local food blogging, some noticeable faces in the industry and – of course – those involved in the project, all supported by the usual influencer rent-a-crowd.
That leads me nicely to why I’m not reviewing it. Ironically, press nights are often not the best time to be sampling the wares. I’ve had some of my worst gastronomic experiences in Leeds on nights like this and although this was not one of those, it was clearly not the night to be reviewing the food.
Whoever was in charge of the guest list had been a little keen: it’s standing room only at times and their QR code ordering system requires you to have a table before you can try anything. Well, anything food-based that is. There is also an unusual but not unwelcome 99% discount running on everything and the crowds are taking full advantage. Hordes of people, together with a virtually free menu, is rarely a recipe for smooth service or excellence in the kitchen.
However, the team has assembled an impressive lineup, so the food has all the hallmarks for success, and I’m sure it will be a pleasure for a number of Leeds Living writers to try out what’s on offer in the coming weeks and months.
Food and Drink
Morty’s Focacceria
Sicilian inspired pizza and sandwiches from the guys behind the much loved Pizza Loco.
https://www.instagram.com/mortys.cuisine by @pizzaloco
Salma
Mexican street food from Hugo Moneypenny, the Leeds-based chef behind MorMor and Good Boy Burgers. If slow-cooked meats and tacos are your thing, then you must check this out.
@salma__kitchen
Kuala Lumpur Cafe
It was good to see Headingley’s highly rated Malaysian eatery taking their place after the sad closure of the Horsforth location last year. Their satay is a highlight for me.
@klcafeheadingley
Lupton’s Chophouse
The grill and oyster bar from the Whitelock’s kitchen team, brings a quality, traditional, meat-heavy menu, alongside fresh oysters.
@luptonschophouse
Coffee
From 8am, 7 days a week you can be served an exceptional brew from Meanwoods very own small batch coffee roasters, Echelon. Expect fresh pastries and other breakfast options to start your day.
@echeloncoffee
Beer & Spirits
As you’d expect, the quality of drinks on offer at the bar is exceptional. You’ll find the usual suspects from Kirkstall Brewery, Northern Monk and, of course, 5 Points. I was more impressed by the array of spirits on offer from both local and lesser seen brands.
Wine
If vino is more your thing, a trip to the wine bar is in order. Headed up by York-based supplier Field & Fawcett, they specialise in natural and organic wines, with Yorkshire charcuterie and cheeses.
I also had the pleasure of meeting the lads behind a new drinks brand, Sommer from Harrogate. They introduced me to their delightful aperitif made from Yorkshire Rhubarb and Scottish Raspberry. It knocks the pants off Aperol and it’s a must try if you haven’t discovered it already. Rhubarb & Raspberry Negroni anyone?
@sommer_drinks
Conclusion
I hope this place is a hit. I can’t for the life of me see why it won’t be. Unless the good people of Leeds all of a sudden stop eating food and drinking beer, the WCH will be popular. It’s also hoped that it’s not just one of the new opening fads that have been the death of others in the City.
One also hopes that this particular new opening encourages further improvement of buildings in the area. This historic part of town should be treasured and treated with more respect than it has. I think the City sometimes forgets its greatest architectural assets in favour of the big, shiny and often butt-ugly new towers. I rarely find myself heaping praise on our Northern rivals from over the Pennines, but Manchester does this well – very well. We could learn a lot from them.
Thankfully, Ed Masson and his team have identified the potential and from what I’ve seen so far, they intend to maximise it in the best way possible. I recommend you pop along and support their efforts. I doubt you’ll be disappointed.
25 Crown Street
Leeds
LS2 7DA.
Monday Closed
Tuesday to Sunday Open from 12 noon.
Coffee shop open 7 days a week from 8 a.m.
Dogs welcome.
All photography by Dan Duggan.
